1 In a flat saucepan, lay your chicory heads flat, salt and pepper them, then pour in the lemon juice and a little water. Cover with parchment paper, making a small hole in the centre for evaporation, then cover and let simmer gently for 30 to 35 minutes (test with a knife). Let cool, press them down and drain well. You can also, if you prefer, steam them instead.
2 Preheat your oven to 480°F (250 °C) (gas mark 8).
3 Butter an earthenware or porcelain dish, then pour in a small ladle of béchamel.
4 Wrap each chicory head with a slice of ham, then arrange them side by side in the dish.
5 Prepare a béchamel sauce that is nice and hot, and stir in 2.5 oz (70 g) of Gruyère or Parmesan. Mix quickly with the egg yolk, then coat your chicory. You will have made a « Mornay » sauce.
6 Sprinkle with the remaining 2.8 oz (80 g) of grated Gruyère or Parmesan and dot with a few knobs of fresh butter, then put in the oven until your dish is nicely gratinéed.
Chicory with ham works all year round, but chicory is at its best from October to March, when it comes from winter forcing beds. Bone-in ham really makes the difference, not supermarket white ham. As for wine, choose a dry white with good structure. A Chablis, a Sancerre, or even a small Meursault if you're feeling generous. The calcium in the cheese and the richness of the béchamel sauce go well with whites that have good backbone. A Bourgogne Aligoté works very well too, it stays affordable and doesn't overpower the dish. For serving, go with a crispy green salad and good mustard. English-style potatoes (just boiled) round out the meal if you want something more substantial. You can also add leftover rice or pasta, but honestly the dish is complete on its own.
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