Recipe: Leeks Royale

Leeks Royale is a French classic you see less often these days, and that's a shame. It's mainly a spring dish, when early-season baby leeks arrive at the market with tender greens. You'll find them at a good greengrocer from February to May. Quick to prepare (15 minutes of sweating in butter) and very elegant on the plate. As for seasonality, leeks are a transition vegetable: they're grown everywhere and keep well, but in early season with those thin batons, it's really springtime. Perfect for a Sunday meal, a starter before white fish or poultry. Historically it's a Parisian bourgeois dish, neither too heavy nor complicated, the kind of thing you'd find in old-school bistros from the 1950s-60s. For wine, go for a dry white with good structure: a Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Chablis, or even a solid Muscadet if you want something lighter. The wine's acidity works well with the cream and citrus in the sauce, it matches naturally. Skip reds, the texture of the custard and delicacy of the leek don't pair with that. For sides, serve this Royale warm or cold with a green salad dressed simply in walnut oil, or steamed asparagus if it's in season. You can also serve it as a vegetable garnish alongside veal chops or fish fillet. The nice thing about this recipe is it scales easily: same proportions with carrots, asparagus, or spinach depending on the season.