Recipe: Pastis landais

It's a classic from the Landes region, where Agen prunes have reigned for centuries. You'll bake it mostly in autumn and winter, when dried prunes reveal their full sweet character. Pitted Agen prunes are the heart of it. Choose plump ones, not shriveled. The aged rum gives a warm note without overdoing it, just one tablespoon. Whipped egg whites bring airiness, which is why the dough doubles in volume during rest. The levure de boulanger does the heavy lifting here. For wine, think a mellow white, a Côtes de Duras or dry Jurançon. The acidity balances the prune sweetness. Hot coffee works beautifully too. Serve it warm with the custard sauce, of course, but you can also offer it alone at meal's end. It's a rich cake but not heavy.